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The 1830s, 40s, and even into the 1850s, you'll see bell shaped skirts, with the skirt size ballooning outward into the early 1860s

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Ann Lowe deftly managed it all and made a gown that was suitable and a tour de force of her skills, but one that Jackie ultimately didnt like

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Zipper - A fastening device typically found at the back or side of the dress for ease of wearing